Exploring Honfleur: Normandy’s Charming Harbor and Literary Gems
Explore ma belle France
The first time I visited Honfleur, I was driving through Normandy on my return to Paris from my country house in Bretagne.
Deep, dense, and winding, the wild mountains and hills of the Normandie countryside broke wide as I dropped down into the village.
The road leads straight into the harbor, and I was awestruck as the view opened up to the picturesque port with its ancient homes clinging to the edge like mussels on a rope. The vibrant colors of the bateaux reflected like jewels.
I parked and checked into my flat as quickly as possible.
A Normandy Dream
Walking over to the Jardin des Personalities with the girls, I called my husband, breathless and almost sick.
For our long-term strategy, one of the steps my husband and I agreed upon was for me to arrive in France first, set up my business, and start the real estate search. I lived or had extended stays all over France. But when Covid hit, we had the opportunity to purchase a home in our favorite region, Cotes d'Armor. Yet, there was ONE place in France that we hadn't explored yet - Honfleur.
Travel with Joy
In this article, I share my favorite locations and discoveries after months of research and personal experience.
I am always grateful for the opportunity to live, work, and travel in this amazing country. And I hope this guide will help you discover another beautiful corner of France.
And here I was - gobsmacked. Did I make a mistake? Did I act too soon? Was THIS the village we should have invested in? I vowed to return not in idyllic September but during one of the more challenging seasons in France, early Spring.
I cannot help it. The American in me still idolizes the old French architecture and homes with character. It took quite a while, but I finally found the perfect Normandy abode and booked it for a month-long stay. Only about 15 minutes from Honfleur, this was a home base for me to explore and dig deep into the area.
And what of my experiment? Do I feel like I made a mistake purchasing our home in Bretagne vs. Calvados? NON. I can say with conviction that we made the right choice.
Did You Know?
At the Musée de la Marine, along the Vieux Bassin, a circular tool with sharp metal spikes almost evokes an object of torture. It is actually a sea biscuit mark which allowed to air the dough of this long-life dry bread used by sailors during long crossings.
Three Favorite Nearby Villages
Discover
Le Bec-Hellouin
I can't remember the last time I visited a village where I felt truly transported back in time. Bec-Hellouin oozes charm, with her quaint streets, half-timbered houses in cheery colors, and the inspiring Bec-Hellouin abbaye dating back to the 11th century.
Voted one of the "most beautiful villages of France," I am sure she won't stay a secret for long. Grab lunch elsewhere as dining options here are limited. Be sure to stop at the gallery and adorable shop full of goodies to take home in front of the abbaye. They don't show up on Google, but are next to this address.
Pont-Audemer
Nicknamed the "Norman Venice," wander among the narrow cobblestone streets where Thierry Hermès (founder of the eponymous brand) lived in 1821. This former city of tanners has a town center typical of the Middle Ages, full of half-timbered houses, old hide dryers and mansions, stone bridges and canals. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to visit too.
Beauvron-En-Auge
I have been to this village twice in a year, I love it that much. This is the most touristic village of the three, with tour buses crowding the public parking spot in high season. I've visited off-season both times and found the village to be quaint, quiet, and full of antique stores to discover. Beauvron-en-Auge is also on the famous Normandy cider route.
Both visits, I have booked a lunch at Le Pavé d'Auge restaurant (online reservations available). I consider both experiences one of the top culinary meals I have had in all of France.
Cuisine
Recommended Honfleur Restaurants
L'Endroit – Fine Dining (3 Rue P et Charles Bréard, 14600 Honfleur)
Villa Gypsy Honfleur – Coffee Shop (2 Rue Notre Dame, 14600 Honfleur)
Restaurant L'escale – Seafood (3 Rue de la ville, 14600 Honfleur)
L'art Du Bistrot – Terrace With A View (14 Pl. Sainte-Catherine, 14600 Honfleur)
Maison Blondel – Cakes And Tea (En haut des marches, 4 Rue des Logettes, 14600 Honfleur)
Bar A Huîtres Bateau – Floating Oyster Bar (Jetée de la lieutenace, 14600 Honfleur)
Etretat
Day Trip
When: A dry, not too windy day
Arrive: At noon, during lunch
Duration: One to two hours
Please note that this trip is not recommended for the mobile-impaired or those who suffer from vertigo or a fear of heights.
There is no railing or security protecting you from the cliff edges, which is why I suggest to go on a dry and calm day.
Trails are a mixture of dirt, gravel, and concrete walkways at the start. Bring hiking shoes, water, sunscreen, and a walking stick if you want stability.
Mon Installation À Honfleur A Toujours Été Le Plus Cher De Mes Rêves
"My Move To Honfleur Has Always Been The Dearest Of My Dreams."
Charles Baudelaire
Must Visit
Musée Eugène Boudin
The vast collection of pre-Impressionist paintings in this stunning museum is breathtaking. Be sure to check if there will be a concert or event while you're visiting Honfleur.
Normandy Artist Collection
Norman artists who paid regular visits to Honfleur, such as Monet, Courbet, Boudin and Friesz, are all featured in this space.
In the museum, you can admire several 19th and 20th century paintings, sculptures, and sketches.
Eugène Boudin
The Honfleur-born artist is considered as one of the forerunners of Impressionism. The importance of the sky in creating atmosphere in Eugène Boudin’s paintings earned him the epithet of ‘King of the skies’ by Camille Corot.
Discover Normandie Patrimonie
You will also discover over 1,000 objects, headdresses, pieces of Norman furniture that collectively comprise a splendid insight into Norman ethnography.
Honfleur
World War II History
The Port of Honfleur was not directly affected by the Normandy beach landings. In fact, it’s one of the rare villages that came out of the war nearly intact.
Operation German Kamikaze
In response to the Allied beach landings on June 6, 1944, the German navy Kriegsmarine took on a suicidal mission; volunteer soldiers boarded speedboats that transported 300 kilos worth of explosives. Two attacks were launched at the end of June against Allied forces. Only one of these boats would accomplish its mission, cannon strikes and machine guns unable to destroy it while en route.
Battle of Normandy
This retaliation attack showed at what point the Germany Army was aware of the significant attacks being carried out on its troops. Surrounded by British troops to the west and Belgian troops to the east, the ports of Honfleur and Le Havre represented an easy opportunity to get to Paris. For many historians, the liberation of Le Havre on September 12, 1944, located on the right bank of the Seine, marked the end of the Battle at Normandy.
Liberation of Honfleur
The Piron Brigade, named as such for its Colonel Jean-Baptiste Piron, liberated Honfleur from German occupation on August 25, 1944. The following day, power was transferred to the 49th British Division.
Additional Tips & Suggestions
While I do my best to suggest day trips with easy access from Paris, Honfleur should be a long weekend voyage.
There is no direct train - I suggest arriving in Deauville or Le Havre and renting a car from there. Much like other parts of rural France, you'll miss out on SO much if you don't have a car to get around.
If driving makes you nervous, I suggest hiring a tour guide for the stay so you can experience Calvados properly.
Bon Voyage!
Exclusive Resources & Tools
Map
This map shares with you all of the locations above and a few extra places I would recommend.
Video
In this entertaining video, I share with you my experiences and locations I visited in Calvados.
Custom Itinerary
In 2023, I will be releasing a full-length Calvados, Normandy guide. For now, if you would like for me to help you plan a custom itinerary, please use my contact form for more info.
