The 4th Arrondissement
“To err is human. To loaf is Parisian.”
Quartier Saint-Gervais: Part Une
In the intro of this summer edition, I mentioned that Saint-Gervais surrounds the Jewish quartier, called Pletzl. I will be writing about that special district in the next edition. For now, let's tuck into my favorite neighborhood in the vast Marais area of Paris.
I spend most of my time in Saint-Gervais because of its fantastic variety of galleries, shops, eateries, parks, and easy access to the Seine River. In this next section, I will share some of my haunts, spaces, and places with you. Enjoy!
Places to Visit
Museums
Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP)
The Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP), is a center for contemporary photographic art. The Hotel Henault de Cantobre, which was built in 1706, houses the MEP. Visitors can enjoy the Café under the 18th century vaults & a bookstore. The MEP is designed to make the three fundamental photographic media (exhibition prints, the printed page, and film) easily accessible to all. It offers numerous commented visits, conferences and films cycles in relation with the exhibitions. Latest shows and online tickets here: https://www.mep-fr.org.
Bibliothèque Forney
Located in Hôtel de Sens, one of the rare vestiges of civil medieval architecture. Specializes in fine arts, decorative arts, graphic arts, crafts, fashion, advertising, and design. Includes a small free museum and public toilets.
Address: 1 Rue du Figuier, 75004 Paris
Azzedine Alaïa Foundation
"As of the 28th of February 2020, the Fondation Azzedine Alaia has by decree of the “Ministère de l’Intérieur” (French Ministry of Interior) been recognized as an establishment of public utility. As was the wish of Azzedine Alaïa before his passing, the missions of the Foundation are to preserve and showcase the work of Azzedine Alaïa, and the many works from the disciplines of art, fashion and design that he collected over the course of his lifetime, to organize exhibitions and to support cultural and educational activities." An immersive experience! LINK
Historical Library of the City of Paris
The Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris, (BHVP), is a public library specializing in the history of the city of Paris, France. The BHVP collection brings together documents dating from the 16th century through the present on the history of Paris and the Île-de-France region. The BHVP is open to the public, allowing access to approximately one million books and booklets, 21,000 manuscripts, as well as plans, maps, and photographs that cover a variety of aspects of Paris including topographic, historic, social, artistic, literary, etc. VIRTUAL TOUR LINK.
History
The Golden Legend
The Saint Gervais district takes its name from the martyrs Saint Gervais and Saint Protais, whose legendary life is recounted in The Golden Legend (La Légende dorée). The Golden Legend ( Legenda aurea in Latin) is a work written in Latin between 1261 and 1266 by Jacques de Voragine, Dominican and Archbishop of Genoa, which tells the life of approximately 150 saints.
Places to visit - Parks
Rosiers Joseph Migneret Garden
The garden takes its name after Joseph Migneret, the director of the "École élémentaire des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais", a boys' school located nearby. During World War II, Migneret showed active resistance by providing false papers to fleeing Jews and sheltering many of his former students, saving them from deportation and death. This 22,980 sq ft garden is hidden and difficult to find. Look for signs posted against the wall. There is a small iron gate to pass through in a hallway. Be sure to visit the HUGE creeping fig. 10 Rue des Rosiers, 75004
Jardin de l'hotel de Lamoignon
On September 25, 2018, the Council of Paris gave this garden the new name "Jardin de l'Hôtel-Lamoignon - Mark-Ashton", in memory of Mark Ashton (Oldham, May 19, 1960 - London, February 11, 1987), queer activist, founder of Lesbians and Gays Support the Miners. A small respite off a busy part of the Marais. This is part of the National Historical Library of Paris, mentioned above. 25 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Paris
Clos des Blancs Manteaux
Located at the end of the courtyard of a former school, this haven of greenery is inspired by medieval monastic gardens. Thus 250 species of aromatic, condiment and medicinal plants dot the squares lined with boxwood and hedges. The straight paths intersect at the fountain and lead to a pergola or a welcoming bench.
Around 1258, the Serfs of Sainte Marie, a community of mendicant monks, founded their convent here. This is another hidden park that is hard to find. Watch for signs. It's located down a long hallway. 21 Rue des Blancs Manteaux, 75004
Square Marie-Trintignant
Located on the route of Philippe Auguste's enclosure, it was created in 1933, under the name of "square de l'Ave-Maria" (in reference to the neighboring rue de l'Ave-Maria ). The square covers 790 m2 . The garden was designed by French landscape architect David Besson-Girard , inspired by the ambiance of the old fig and cherry orchards that dotted the Marais district during the Renaissance. Throw a stone and you'll hit the River Seine. du Fauconnier et rue France, quai des Célestins, Rue de l'Ave Maria, 75004
