Three Coffee Shop Mini Itineraries for Central Paris
A gentle reminder that these itineraries are all within walking distance of the River Seine. But Paris coffee culture is far more than just these locations! Stay tuned for additional features and favorite spots.
Tuesday: Luxembourg Gardens Literary Loop
For those recreating this itinerary at home, here’s today’s mix:
Bookshop café
A sacred space, gallery, or museum with art and calm
An artist’s shop
Bakery-inspired lunch
Garden
And another bookstore!
Start: Café La Procure X Coutume
Our first itinerary begins at Café La Procure (officially Café La Procure X Coutume) at 3 Rue des Mézières in the 6th arrondissement, just steps from Jardin du Luxembourg. Tom Clark, founder of Coutume, chose this location specifically for its literary atmosphere : the café sits within La Procure, an emblematic bookstore of the 6th, on a beautiful corner directly across from Saint-Sulpice Church.
What I love about this place is that it's truly a coffee shop in a bookstore. Unlike Shakespeare and Company, where the café and bookstore operate separately, here you're immediately surrounded by books the moment you walk in. The staff welcomes dogs with genuine warmth, they keep toys and water bowls on hand, and during spring, I found myself returning daily.
They offer both interior seating and exterior tables for pleasant weather, plus a small selection of food alongside their excellent coffee and cold fusion drinks. But the real draw is the proximity to Luxembourg Gardens, where we'll spend our entire afternoon, after lunch.
Saint-Sulpice Church
Cross the street to visit Saint-Sulpice, this magnificent 17th-century church famous for Delacroix's murals in the Chapel of Holy Angels. The church holds deeper historical significance- Anne de Bretagne reportedly laid one of its foundation stones, and Victor Hugo was married within these walls.
The true hidden treasure is Saint-Sulpice's historic organ, one of Paris's most famous instruments requiring specially trained organists to play. For early risers, I highly recommend attending morning mass to experience the transcendent organ music filling this sacred space.
Marine Montagut
A short walk brings you to Marine Montagut, the charming shop of French illustrator and designer Marine Montagut. While trending currently, many visitors overlook this treasure just one or two blocks from our starting point.
Marine creates objects he feels are missing from daily life, showcasing them in his Parisian boutique. I first discovered his work at Bon Marché before he opened this stone's-throw-from-Luxembourg location. His Instagram offers delightful glimpses of new collections, but nothing compares to experiencing his curated world in person.
The shop houses beautiful hand-painted glassware, plates, cups, and trays alongside stationery, pens, notebooks, and postcards perfect for café journaling. Textiles include hand towels, embroidered napkins, and scarves, all sized perfectly for suitcase travel. Lampshades, candles, candy boxes, and heart cups complete the collection of objects that capture this adorable corner of Paris.
Bread and Roses
Continue up the street to Bread and Roses for lunch. Technically a bakery masquerading as a restaurant, everything here achieves excellence. Their épicerie stocks wonderful take-home items perfect if you're renting an apartment during your stay.
The restaurant menu changes seasonally, but expect options like quiche Provençal with tomatoes, zucchini, olives, and goat cheese, or my personal favorite: quiche Lorraine with Comté cheese and bacon. Salads include a substantial niçoise with anchovies and tuna, Greek salad, and chicken salad with avocado, grapefruit, and cherry tomatoes. Hot dishes might feature vegetable couscous with zucchini, turnips, and carrots, or their excellent beef lasagna.
Given its popularity, reservations are strongly recommended.
Jardin du Luxembourg
After lunch, explore Luxembourg Gardens, beginning with the famous Queens and Illustrious Women of France statues surrounding the palace. These twenty marble figures, installed throughout the 19th century, represent queens like Blanche de Castille and Clotilde, saints like Sainte Bathilde and Sainte Geneviève (the patron saint of Paris! I always visit her 🥰), and notable figures including Marguerite de Navarre and Anne de Bretagne.
Don't miss the statue of George Sand, positioned separately, sort of parallel and near the Medici Fountain rather than with the queens around the palace pond.
The Medici Fountain becomes particularly photogenic during autumn afternoons when light filters through the changing leaves. This is where your Marine Montagut journal comes in handy — settle into one of those iconic green chairs and capture your Parisian experience on paper.
Little Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore
End your literary loop at Little Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore, visible from the backside of the Medici Fountain (which is really interesting, by the way, don’t miss the sculptures here!). This intimate, independent English bookstore deserves support, and if you're traveling with children, their dedicated children's bookstore sits immediately to the left of the main shop.
The children's section offers bilingual selections, and both stores specialize in Paris-based books and local authors that pack flat in luggage. If you're seeking the perfect Parisian literary souvenir, this is your destination.
Wednesday: River Islands & Marais Discovery
For those recreating this itinerary at home, here’s today’s mix:
Coffee shop
Wander a new or favorite neighborhood you haven’t been to in a while
Lunch featuring your favorite comfort food
Visit a historic location you haven’t seen yet
Start: Artesano
Wednesday's itinerary centers around the Seine, beginning at Artesano, where Arturo, a gentle soul from Mexico, roasts specialty coffees exclusively from Chiapas and Veracruz regions. This journalist and photographer exhibits his work in his tucked-away space literally steps from the river.
You'd never know this coffee shop exists from the street. The calm intersection and huge windows create year-round luminous light perfect for daydreaming and writing. Limited interior seating sits before unobstructed windows, while the hidden village of St. Paul waits just behind for antiquing adventures.
Do not leave without trying Arturo's ristretto- it's absolutely incredible.
Île Saint-Louis & Île de la Cité
Walk to Île Saint-Louis first, allowing yourself to fall under the island's spell before continuing to Île de la Cité. Say hello to Notre-Dame - she's reopened, and if lines aren't too long, pop inside.
For those who haven't experienced Sainte-Chapelle, now is the time. Despite being less famous than Notre-Dame, this jewel shouldn't languish on your list. Expect TSA-style security since it's part of the Paris court system, but once inside, the famous upper chapel's stained glass will overwhelm you. I always recommend buying the timed entry tickets online before you go.
Already visited Sainte-Chapelle? Consider the Conciergerie instead. Their rotating exhibitions often focus on Paris history, and if you're interested in Marie Antoinette's final chapter, this visit completes the story for those who've followed her tragic story.
Au Bourgogne du Marais
Loop back through the Marais to Au Bourgogne du Marais at 52 rue François-Miron for lunch. This family operation, dad handles wine, mom manages administration, sons serve tables, welcomes dogs and offers both covered outdoor terraces and interior seating.
Having eaten through their affordable menu extensively, I can promise every French classic exceeds expectations. The interior's authentic Burgundian decoration feels transported directly from that region where I once lived (Beaune, to be exact). Situated on a quieter Paris square, it provides calm respite from busier tourist areas.
Online reservations are available and recommended.
Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis
End with Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis, a 17th-century Roman Catholic church you've likely passed if you've spent time in the Marais. Built between 1627 and 1641 by Jesuits, this baroque masterpiece was originally called Saint-Louis before Revolutionary renaming.
The ornate facade hints at the stunning interior featuring a magnificent dome and paintings by Simon Vouet. Despite remaining an active parish since 1802, it welcomes visitors who appreciate architectural and artistic significance. It really is exquisite on the inside.
Paris secret: Can you find the old Roman wall of Paris behind the church?
Alternative ending: If you prefer avoiding another church, Place des Vosges sits nearby, though I suspect you've already discovered Paris's oldest planned square!
Thursday: Palais Royal & Literary Paris
For those recreating this itinerary at home, here’s today’s mix:
Coffee shop
Visit a beautiful library
Support small business shopping - even if just to look!
A new book or magazine to read this autumn
And finally a lovely museum that stirs your soul
Coffee Choices: Telescope & Café Kitsuné
Thursday's itinerary centers around Palais Royal, perfect if you're planning Louvre visits. Three excellent coffee options sit within half a block of each other.
Telescope, founded by Nicolas Clerc, attracts serious coffee connoisseurs. The intimate space features intricate wooden details and an up-close atmosphere where Nicolas often works behind the bar himself. Someone once described sitting here as waiting in a 1930s train station, that perfect marriage of old and new aesthetics. Their café filtré, espresso, noisette, and café crèmes all excel.
Café Kitsuné offers two nearby locations. The garden location (51 Galerie de Montpensier) sits within Palais Royal itself: imagine enjoying chai lattes while wandering beneath trees among fountains and gardens. However, this location offers only outdoor seating and opens later.
The alternative Café Kitsuné (2 Place André Malraux) sits just outside Palais Royal behind Comédie Française, opening early at 8 AM with indoor seating and brunch options. While I've only tried their pastries, the upstairs seating provides rain protection and full meals.
I will say, however, Kistuné is a love of also convenience, as lately their prices have been a bit astronomical and their financers have not been hitting the mark. I recently went for our normal visit and walked away with a chai and two dry cookies for 17.50 euros.
Strategy: Early risers seeking food should choose Place André Malraux Kitsuné. Coffee connoisseurs should pick Telescope when open. Afternoon chai latte lovers wanting garden ambiance should choose the Palais Royal Kitsuné.
Bibliothèque Nationale de France
Continue to BNF. If this isn't on your radar, it should be. The recently renovated rotunda room opens to the public in this world-renowned library. Perfect for poor weather days, you don't need library credentials - simply enter, find seating, and enjoy writing or reading in this stunning space.
They also host museum exhibitions and temporary displays worth monitoring.
Galerie Vivienne
Cross the street to Galerie Vivienne, one of Paris's most beautiful covered passages. Built in 1823 during the golden age of Parisian passages, these glass-roofed galleries preceded modern shopping malls, protecting shoppers and strollers from weather.
Vivienne's stunning mosaic floors, elegant ironwork, and soaring glass ceiling make it the most photographed passage in the city. Boutiques, bookshops, and cafés line the route connecting Rue Vivienne to Rue des Petits-Champs - a perfect testament to 19th-century Parisian commercial architecture.
La Boutique du Conseil Constitutionnel & Librairie Galignani
Cutting back through Palais Royal toward the Louvre, discover La Boutique du Conseil Constitutionnel, a unique museum shop for democracy enthusiasts. If you're seeking items featuring France's national motto "Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité," this specialized gift shop delivers.
Across the street stands Librairie Galignani, one of France's most iconic bookstores. Established around 1708, it holds the distinction of being the first English-language bookstore on the European continent. Originally both publisher and bookstore, it became the gathering place for English-speaking expatriates and travelers.
Maintaining its prestigious Louvre-adjacent location (I can’t even imagine how they must have fought for and paid for this space over the years, an enormous investment of time and money), Galignani specializes in English and French literature, art books, and travel guides. The elegant interior and carefully curated selection make it essential for bibliophiles and a piece of living literary history.
Hôtel de la Marine
End at Hôtel de la Marine facing Place de la Concorde. This spectacular hidden château experience in central Paris was built in the 18th century by architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel, serving as royal furniture repository and later housing the Ministry of Navy for over 200 years.
After extensive restoration, it reopened as a museum showcasing magnificent period rooms, including the Intendant of the King's Furniture apartments. The two-and-a-half-hour visit offers intimate château experience without leaving central Paris.
This visit brings tears to my eyes every time - you can learn more in my dedicated video tour of this incredible space.
