Château de Fontainebleau: A Literary Day Trip Beyond Versailles

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Feb 2

Just beyond the city’s elegant borders lies a château where French history still breathes, dances, and whispers to those willing to travel a little farther. Château de Fontainebleau is not merely a monument but a lived-in palimpsest of kings, emperors, and quiet wonder. Less crowded than Versailles yet richer in intimacy, it offers a sovereign encounter with France’s past. This is a day trip for women who travel not to consume beauty, but to converse with it.

Fontainebleau Part 2

You simply get off and follow the rest of the tourists (and signs) to the chateau. However, Fontainebleau seemed more daunting. I decided to be brave and head out there.

A metro, RER, and bus ride later, I arrived at the estate. Little did I know at the time that Château de Fontainebleau offers a unique opportunity, unlike any other - reenactments. I was astonished at the sheer amount of furniture, artwork, and decor that were on display. Unlike Versailles, this château was not ransacked during the French revolution. And it boasts the last remaining throne room in France. Every king of France has lived here and added to the estate, creating an incredible experience for any visitor.

I was lazily moving my way through each room, with only a handful of other tourists, when one of the chateau's team members hurriedly entered the room, rushing us along. My French language skills were so poor then, and I didn't understand what was being asked of me. I politely followed everyone else into the grand hall, which looks very similar to the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles (see photo).

Guests were instructed to part way, up against either side of the room, creating an extended, narrow group of observers. Those up front were handed a red velvet ribbon, an impromptu barricade. To my dismay, classical music started, increasing in intensity until the hall doors dramatically opened to reveal King Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, and their court, who had just arrived at the chateau.

I could barely believe what I was witnessing, as actors and actresses, in sumptuous costumes, poured into the hall.

Fontainebleau Part 3

And, right in front of us, they began to dance. It brings tears to my eyes to think of it now. I was utterly mesmerized by the entire experience, and a bit saddened as the dance ended with the troupe slowly leaving the room.

We were then allowed to leave the hall, and, not to be disappointed, Fontainebleau surprised me yet again. The actors and actresses remained in character throughout the day. They were permitted to be on the furniture and in the areas forbidden to tourists. As I wandered from room to room, I would come across courtiers deep in discussion, as if I weren't there. King Louis and Marie Antoinette relaxed in the gardens. And the entire day was like living in a dream.

Another famous resident of Château de Fontainebleau was Napoleon I. He came here more than ten times between 1803 and 1815. Annually, the estate hosts a grand reenactment of Napoleon leaving the castle by horseback with his calvary. There are over 300 actors that participate in this spectacle.

I have returned to the château multiple times since. It is my favorite destination for guests who have visited Château Versailles and are looking for a similar but different day trip.

But don't let the castle be the only reason you visit the city of Fontainebleau. The largest municipality in the Ile-de-France region, it is almost entirely covered by a 25,000-hectare forest. If you are a nature lover, the hiking trails and rock-climbing opportunities bring many Parisians out on the weekend.

My routine generally is to leave in the morning, after breakfast. Estimate an hour and a half, two hours without a rush, to get from the doorstep of your Paris flat or hotel room to the doorstep of the château.

The timing is as such that you can arrive at the town of Fontainebleau just in time for the start of the lunch hour. Have a nice meal out on a terrace and take in the picturesque city. Then spend the rest of your day at the château, in the gardens, and perhaps wander into the forest accessible from the castle grounds.

Aside from purchasing your tickets in advance via the Château de Fontainebleau website, I also suggest that you watch closely for announcements of their reenactments, events, and unique exhibitions. The castle often rotates or opens up special rooms and spaces for a limited time.

Please do not let your fear of traveling outside of Paris, using the transportation system here, or your lack of language skills be a barrier to experiencing places like this. I promise you that this experience is worth every bit of effort.

Fontainebleau Part 5

Unlike the approach at Château Versailles, at Fontainebleau, you walk right through the main gates. You will be facing the grand staircase. If you look to your right, there is a sign for the ticket office. You will start here, even if you have paid in advance. This area is also where the restrooms are located.

For those of you who have purchased my France Travel Planner, you will have access to my recommended apps to use for the metro system, as well as an instructional DIY video on using the Paris trains.