Part Two, More about the Cottage & How to Book It
(Property details and booking information for Bill and Jenny’s cottage are below.)
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Day One at the Cottage: Settling In, Slowing Down
After a full day of logistics — packing, renting the car, loading groceries, navigating out of Paris, and completing the drive — I had no interest in pushing myself further.
The first full day here was intentionally quiet.
This trip was about reset. And that meant beginning slowly.
An incredibly comfortable and quiet bedroom with a lot of space, an oversized dresser, and lovely decor.
Waking Up Without a City
Of course, the reason why I was here was for this: the absence of sound.
No traffic.
No neighbors above or below.
No delivery trucks.
No travaux.
I opened every window in the house and let fresh air move through the rooms. The dogs went straight into the enclosed garden… no leash, no street crossing or dodging cars, no rushing. Just open the door and let them out.
That alone changes your entire morning. Well, at least for me it does!
This is the series I was working on while at the cottage. I definitely recommend!
I made coffee. Sat in the sun. Had yogurt for breakfast. Read my book. There was no need to rush into anything.
After months of recovery… cast, boot, painful reintroduction to walking… I wanted to honor the fact that my body was still catching up.
And after a heavy travel day, I’ve learned that building in a buffer is essential. I don’t schedule outings immediately. I let myself land.
A Special Consideration when Traveling with Dogs in France
We discovered a fantastic walking route, about 10k steps, that was safe (muddy!) and almost entirely off-leash… something the girls hadn’t had for months now.
When traveling in rural France with dogs, there are additional considerations that many people don’t think about.
First, it is still chasse season (hunting season). That changes how and where you walk.
Second, in rural areas, many dogs are property dogs. They may not be behind fences. They are often off-leash. And that can create real risk if you unknowingly walk into the wrong area.
Third, country roads are narrow. Drivers move quickly. Visibility around corners can be limited. Walking dogs along those roads can feel exposed and unsafe.
Because of that, one of my first questions to Jenny when booking the cottage was about safe walking routes nearby.
Part of my goal for Day One was to test that route — to understand exactly where I could safely walk the girls and where I could not. I wanted a reliable loop that we could end each day with, without stress.
That small detail made the rest of the trip easier.
Nesting Before Exploring
The warmest day of the week was forecast for Wednesday, so I knew I didn’t want to exhaust myself before then.
Instead, I used the day to settle in.
I did light food prep so I wouldn’t have to think about meals later in the week. One of the advantages of a fully equipped kitchen is that you can cook intentionally rather than scrambling for convenience.
I also baked a batch of cookies.
Ten Belles in Paris has me obsessed over their chocolate rye cookines and I’m trying to figure out the best imitation recipe. This one wasn’t a keeper but I’ll let you know when I’ve mastered it!
Beyond that, the day was simple:
Multiple short walks
Time in the garden
Sitting in the sun
A bath in an actual bathtub (a small luxury after months of only having a shower in Paris)
It was, intentionally, a day of very little.
The Value of a True First Day
By the end of the day, I was tired. Not drained — but tired in the way that comes from finally relaxing after holding tension for a long time.
When I woke up Wednesday morning, I felt ready. Ready for our first outing. Ready to explore. And that, to me, is the difference between forcing an itinerary and honoring one.
Now, I’ll share more about the cottage itself — its history, the church nearby, and how to book it — along with where we headed for our first excursion.
This view is from the backyard, looking towards the house. The french doors lead directly into the kitchen.
From the owners, Bill & Jenny, who are from the UK and fluent in both French and English:
“In 2000, Jenny and Bill embarked on a major five-year renovation project of a French farmhouse. All was going well when, suddenly, a small stone house oozing with potential in the same commune came onto the market. With little spare money in their pockets, the race was on to acquire and rescue this unique property. The early nineteenth century house had not been lived in for thirty years and yet it was solid and full of beautiful features - flagstones, oak beams, stone fire places and best of all a wonderful setting with a garden near the church of a quiet Burgundian village. Many years later, the house continues to be one of their most popular properties with many guests asking the same question: ‘Would you ever think of selling this place?’ For now, the answer remains a firm ‘No’!
Travel, tourism, entertaining, and seeking the best in life have always been central to Bill and Jenny Higgs’ lives. They left the UK in the 90s - Jenny as a Prue Leith chef and Bill already immersed in the world of wine. For many years, their main focus was running luxury hotel barge cruises on the rivers and canals of central France, eventually setting up home in the rolling Burgundy countryside between Dijon and Chablis. Today they run four beautiful vacation rental properties near the medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois. Jenny also works on interior design and upholstery for house renovations, whilst Bill still hits the road from time to time as a Rick Steve’s tour guide in England, Wales, and France.”
For more information and to contact Bill and Jenny Higgs go to chezhiggs.com. Or if you prefer to book through Abritel, you can click here.
You can see the front door just to the left. Private parking is right there in front, which was so convenient for loading and unloading. The kitchen is extremely well equipped and easy to work in. You can also see the french doors out to the enclosed garden. Stairs lead to the single bathroom, landing with desk and daybed, and the bedroom.
I used this landing as a dressing room but it does have a daybed. I loved the desk and the light in the morning. You have a view of the backyard and church from here. Note that some reviews in the summer months mention that the upstairs can be warm. In February, when the temps still dipped down into upper 30’s and low 40’s at night, it was nice and cool for me to sleep.
The girls and I enjoyed the cozy fireplace at night when the temps dropped.
This is a view of the church from the kitchen window. The morning sunlight would rise right over the church and come streaming into the window, the birds singing, it was pure bliss to wake up to.
The enclosed garden was quite generous, with two loungers and a outdoor dining table. It was plenty of space for two small dogs or one large. It receives full sun, especially in the afternoon.
• Location: Rural Burgundy (about 3 hours from Paris)
• Length of trip: 5 nights / 6 days
• Travel style: Cottage stay in the countryside rather than a hotel
• Best for: Parisians, long-stay visitors, or experienced travelers wanting a quieter side of France
• Traveling with dogs: Enclosed garden + countryside walking paths
• Highlight: Visiting the UNESCO-listed Abbey of Fontenay
• Favorite rhythm: Explore in the morning, relax at the cottage in the afternoon
• Unexpected discovery: A tiny village bakery with incredible pastries
• Perfect ending to the day: Garden time, countryside walks, and Burgundian gougères
In the next post, I share nearby activities and itinerary ideas that I had in my “Plan B".
